At Simac, Comelz presents software for calculating consumptionMatteo Pasca, general manager of the ARSUTORIA design school speaks with one of Comelz’s technicians about the advantages of Caligola ST-Plus
The first thing I thought was “what can possibly be new about a software that calculates consumption?”
In fact, software that automates different methods traditionally calculated by hand by pattern makers (like the elastic method or that of the parallelogram) has existed for many years now, and these tools can be found in all the CAD software present in the footwear industry.
I accordingly asked COMELZ to explain to me how this product is different and better than what is already available on the market. I did not speak of it with the marketing department, but directly with one of the company’s technicians, that is to say one of the professionals who visits customers every day and comes face-to-face with their industrial realities.
The difference between Caligola ST-Plus and other software lies in its level of accuracy in calculating consumption, which in turn is determined by three fundamental elements:
1. The precision of the patterns developed in different sizes: the pieces can originate from COMELZ’s Caligola CAD system or can be imported in DXF format, after having been created by a different CAD system.
2. The inspection of the material: with leather, there is a clear synergy with the COMELZ ESA NEK tables, allowing for the digitalisation of the geometry– shape and dimension – of each individual skin and its characteristics (e.g. defects and cutting areas). By using Caligola ST-Plus software to acquire the characteristics of the material, it is possible to pinpoint the estimated consumption. It is not however necessary to acquire this information from all the skins to be cut (even if it is possible to do so): in fact, by analysing a sample of just 4 or 5 skins, the results of the calculation will be improved.
3. Nesting and cutting logistics: in this field, COMELZ makes the most of its legacy of experience arriving from the thousands of cutting islands present in companies around the world. A wide range of criteria is closely followed by the factory when cutting: the optimisation of the collection, matching the parts of the shoe with the areas of the material, the direction of the cut, etc. As was once done in the past in shoe factories, the estimation of the consumption by pattern makers is validated by the “yield calculation” of the cutter. In the same way, Caligola ST-Plus determines the precise nesting of the pieces from a sample of the materials and simulates the way in which the pieces will be cut.