Paolo Marenghi from Arsutoria School with Enrico Macchi from Roveda

What are the major challenges that Roveda’s quality control department has to face?
“We work with brands that produce at least six collections a year, in addition to shoes for capsules and special events. In each collection, style offices often change materials and Roveda must guarantee that they all comply with the law and with the chemical and physical parameters required by our customers”.

What are Roveda’s most used types of linings?
“As we produce elegant shoes for women the most used type of lining is goat. We also use linings of sheepskin sheeps and lambs”.

How do you make sure that the leathers you receive for your linings are adequate?
“Each batch of leather that arrives at Roveda must be accompanied by a chemical analysis carried out by an accredited third-party laboratory that certifies compliance with the RSL (Restricted Substance Lists) of the brand. Since linings are in direct contact with the foot, today it is essential to check that the leathers used do not contain harmful chemicals. Together with chemical analyses, our supplier tanneries carry out physical tests in their internal laboratories to guarantee the performance of the materials they supply us. Physical tests are repeated at Roveda’s internal laboratory as an additional control level”.

From a physical point of view, what should be checked when it comes to linings?
“Lining leathers are much more subjected to frictional rubbing during walking than leathers for uppers. It is therefore essential to verify that these leathers cannot be damaged by abrasion even in the presence of sweat. There must be no colour loss or transfer to the sock and foot. We also must keep in mind that even lining leathers can be printed or laminated and this causes potential concern. We also check that the colour is homogeneous along the leather section”.

When are all these controls made?
“Industrialisation is the critical quality control phase, that is, the one that precedes the production of the sample. As far as possible, we try to anticipate some controls already in the sampling phase, but we only know exactly in the industrialisation phase what materials will be used. Moreover, in this phase the production process is finalised and it is important to verify how hides will react to the physical stresses of the assembly: in particular to temperature influences and tractions”.