Francesco De Giorgi, Vito Ditta and Roberto Poretti, Production Management at FRATELLI Rossetti, with Paolo Marenghi from Arsutoria School

What types of lining are used in Rossetti men’s shoes? We asked to the Production Management of Fratelli Rossetti.
“Calfskin lining is widely used in men’s shoes. Calf is a skin with a very soft and enveloping touch. Very high quality calves are available on the market, suitable for Fratelli Rossetti’s shoe level. However, we must confess a preference for the use of goat linings also in the construction of elegant men’s footwear. We use both goat and sheepskin, types of leather that have extraordinary features when used for linings: in particular an unparalleled balance between the strength of the structure, given by the tenacity of the fibres, and the softness of leather lending a feeling of comfort around the foot”.

In your opinion what makes one leather for linings better than others?
“In the first place, the lining must breathe well: this, in our opinion, is the most important feature. It is essential to work with very natural leathers, where the grain is well uncovered: whatever is added above the grain of the skin limits the natural properties of this extraordinary material. Secondly, the lining must give structure to the shoe: an important aspect especially in winter shoes, which are more constructed and in which the lining plays an important role also in the entry and exit of the foot. Finally, the lining must have the ability to maintain its aesthetic characteristics unchanged over time: in a luxury men’s shoe a lining cannot lose colour, stain socks or the foot of the wearer, let alone darken with use”.

What is, therefore, the secret to obtain all these features at the same time?
“Choosing the right suppliers is crucial. The best tanneries are those that manage to ensure the supply of the best leathers but, above all, those able to guarantee the correct balance between the chemical colour fixing and the maintenance of the natural characteristics of the leather, in particular breathability. And they are able to maintain this quality over time”.