PELLAMI DUE C – Massimo Pantanetti (Sales Manager)
The tannery based in Monte San Pietrangeli, founded in 1994, specialises in imports/exports of pig, goat, sheepskin and calf skins. Lining items constitute 80% of the company’s turnover. A company that focuses on the speed of delivery times.
We meet Massimo Pantanetti, Sales Manager of the company. “The lining sector is a market with limited margins that is sustainable only by making significant volumes. Today, companies offering these items are confronted with quality. It is essential to keep the product level high to reduce the risk of customer complaints”.
Pantanetti identifies in the Certifications the last decade’s turning point: “Meanwhile they have become imperative in order to work with the most important customers as investments to be faced are considerable. Being in line with REACH requests is not sufficient, we have to deal with more restrictive customer specifications and work with test laboratories all over the world.”
Traceability is another hot topic that is becoming increasingly common amongst customers. “There are two reasons that make this topic complex”, continues Pantanetti “on the one hand in some countries the traceability back to the farm of origin is objectively difficult, on the other hand the selection of suppliers is one of the assets of companies like ours that unwillingly reveal details which are the result of years of work and research”.
“Another important issue is that of the relationship with customers: today we are involved much more in their production processes and it is essential to be able to support customers by helping them to fine-tune how to use our products”.
PRIMORPELLI – Paolo Nardini (Product Manager)
Paolo Nardini is Primorpelli’s Product Manager, a company with over 30 years of experience in the production of uppers for medium and medium-low price shoes. The company specialises in the use of sheep and goat kins from Central Africa, leathers that have a good thickness (0.8 – 1 mm), an excellent resistance to rubbing, are well breathable as well as having the advantage of a very competitive price. Items that have attracted the attention of luxury brands for the creation of linings, in particular for sneakers. Thus, in 2015 the company launched a division dedicated to linings, which today represents approximately 20% of the its turnover, which is continuously growing.
“As far as linings are concerned, customers’ requests insist in particular on technical requirements, such as the leather’s heat resistance (even above 120 degrees) to carry out particular processes, or corrective tanning to reduce their flaws. On a stylistic level, opaque variants are the most requested ones but the exact colour correspondence to the masters agreed with the style offices is particularly important.
There is also growing attention towards sustainability issues and in particular towards metal free hides, also for footwear in the medium and low segment, especially in Northern Europe markets. The company has chosen to face this challenge by purchasing pickel hides and developing ecological tanning processes. LWG certification was another of the fundamental steps of the company’s strategy”.
PER-PEL – Filippo Peroni (Sales/Marketing Manager)
The company specialises in calfskin for uppers intended for medium and medium-high price footwear, sold both in raw and wet-blue. Today, linings represent around 40% of our turnover. “Brands today require above all linings with high resistance to rubbing, and absolute compliance with the requests of the style office. In general, there is a huge attention to defects, which especially comes from important brands, and a demand for natural-looking leathers”. The company is also working to be able to offer metal free hides in the short term having registered increasing attention to this theme.
Conceria TIRRENA – Roberto Gioacchini (Export Manager)
A well-known tannery based in the Marche region is one of the major Italian suppliers of footwear linings (which account for 80% of the turnover), as well as leather for uppers and leather goods. “The reduction of lead times is fundamental for our customers: they always request ready-made goods for almost immediate deliveries of several types and colours”.
The ability to ensure consistency in quality is also a top priority.
“We work with the brands with which we mainly, but non only, develop customised projects. We also serve other lower level brands thanks to our always ready and full stocked warehouse”. Tirrena’s main market is undoubtedly Europe, followed by South Africa, India, Far East, Central America.
“Recently, many have been asking for chromium-free items. As far as we are concerned, at this moment, we can offer this type of product on lining of pig skin, but we are working to extend the concept also to other types of leather”. Among the main problems that a tannery for linings faces today, Giocchini highlights the variegated multitude of specifications: “It would not be bad if we could build a standard that would allow us to compare ourselves with a single list of criteria valid for all customers”.
DTL – Diego Tarricone (Titolare)
Known for the trade and the production of grain and split leather for footwear, handbags and clothing, DTL mainly treats bovine, goat and pig hides. The latter in particular for the lining segment.
“Operating in the lining sector is really complex. It is among the most controlled sectors given the contact of the material with the foot. In Germany, for example, there are very strict controls to investigate any possible irregularities in the lining. The most pressing requests on the market? A metal free tanning. And this is not just required by brands, but also by the entire Northern European market segment”.
Tarricone also highlights another issue related to sustainability: tracing the origin of the animal. “Other requests are breathability and naturalness in substance and appearance”.
A threat to leather lining? “Synthetic material is stealing several market shares and not only in the low end segment, but also at the top end, thanks to new materials, yet with high quality and with good breathability features”.